lil Fab work

Daniel @ Boost Junkyz help with my much needed battery box; super durable and perfect fit!

This battery is going anywhere!

300z/ 5 lug Brake upgrade

There's plenty information floating around the World Wide Web how to complete the infamous z32 front and rear brake upgrade. In fact, most are overlooking the previous "big brake" swap and going even bigger with the z33 brake upgrade. As the stories goes, if you try to keep up with the Jones's you will never finish your car; it will always be a project.

This year is dedication 2011
Representing the idea of staying focused and executing task.
Mind you I've had this "track car" in my possession for a few years now and it has not seen one day on the track. So for now I will have to call it my potential track car as I attempt to stay focused to one day see this car enjoying a manful life of tire shredding, smoke bearing, motor revving, sideways glory.
That's the dream and I'm sticking to it.
Back to this weekends' progress and this weekend is not close to being over just yet. Today is the annual IFO - Import Face Off down in Tucson. There will be drag racing, car show, and maybe a drift session if I recall correctly. However, I cannot enjoy watching others preform as mine sits so close to being finished. With Monday being a holiday I'll have additional time to advance on the project with a little preparation.

One thing I've come to have is a profound respect for is the build process itself. Previously thinking about those who would pay somebody else to build their car as a lesser individual. Now considering all the time, work, and effort involved in even the simplest of processes and the headaches with limited tools and time. I can see why someone would turn to an automotive shop. Allow the specialist to do what they do best!

This weekend I jacked up the rear-end of the car, dropped the rear sub frame and gas tank. I still need to find a proper procedures to dispose of the 5 year old gas in the tank, in due time.

Removing the sub frame from the 95 240sx I noticed every sub frame bushing had ripped/torn apart from its original design. This car was an automatic before I added the five speed master cylinder and hardware last week. Differential and sub frame bushing upgrade is a must from here on out. After researching the options of ploy urethane and solid bushing I have decided to go with solid. The car being gutted from the original sound deadening material will allow noise to travel either way. With the solid bushings in place there should be less play in the suspension while driving.

With the rear-end up in the air it was the perfect time to complete the 5 lug and 300z brake upgrade.

I had the brakes powder coated a while ago but never got around to completing the install. Fronts were a direct replacement that took maybe 10 minutes. I captured a few pictures with the good old G1 as a reference to the install.

Step 1.
-Jack up the car from the rear-end
-Position jack stands to support car
-Remove axles completely from vehicle

(at this point you have two options- some may prefer to remove the e-brake cables- I on the other had complete the brake upgrade with out removing the original e-brake cable until it was time to install the newer conversion cable. I thought this was helpful to ensure you're using the right cable on each side)

-Remove the two bolts holding the rear caliper in place
-Remove caliper off the rotor (some may slide easily while rusted rotors will require force)
-Remove the rotor
-Remove the four bolts holding the hub in place
-Remove hub and dust shield.


Step 2.
-clean the center of the rear uprights before installing 5 lug hubs (light sand paper and wd-40)
-Place 300z dust shield to upright
-Install 5 lug hubs
-Insert studs through the upright into hub
-Install e-brake cables
-Install rotors
-Install 300z calipers

Step 3.
-Once both sides are complete adjust your e-brake cable to make upgrade functional.

New direction

So I started de-looming the stock chassis harness from the 1995 240sx. Starting mapping out the engine bay wire tuck along with the ugly ugly chassis wiring that seems to hide in huge bundles under the dash when other attempt to relocate their fuse boxes.

After de-looming just the chassis harness inside of the cabin, before even getting to the engine bay I realize there has to be a better way. All the work involved would be so time consuming; to get the chassis harness to its desirable length almost 4 feet of wires would need to be removed. Same goes for the front chassis harness (engine bay). With the fuse relocation in place approximately 4 feet of unnecessary wire length would need to be de-loomed, measured, cut, soldered, wrapped, and loomed again.

The question at hand is if is worth it to me in the case of my "track car," which it was worth it with the street car to keep all the stock accessories etc. However, in this case with the "track car" I was unsure if the wiring time was worth the opportunity to utilize the stock speedometer, water temp, oil pressure, fuel, and other stock gauges on the bezel.

I decided NO, it's not worth the time which is very limited in my case and headache to complete such a complex wiring job for a track car.

Therefore the new wiring project will begin shortly, custom fuse box, all new wires, clips, stealthy shrink wrap.... The works.

In the meantime I'm in pursuit of locating the "right" motor for a heart transplant.

LS1 anyone?.... Message if I you have a killer deal :)

trying to manage..

Time is one thing I can't seem to locate these days...

Work, school, Dion, the shop...

Always needing to be somewhere every moment I blink my eyes. Eh oh well this is life as we know it and to do work one must sacrifice a little sleep.

Trying to make progress, hopefully I'll complete the motor swap within the coming weeks.

For now have begun the chassis harness reduction and will then complete the engine bay tuck.



100% complete chassi harness all stock 1995 Nissan 240sx 108,000miles- oh boy.











That's just for starters-